5

80/20
4
Average: 4 (1 vote)

From food to decor, this Charoenkrung diner is a clever mix of Thai and Western. 

The buzz: Last year’s hipster underdog (#15 in Top Tables 2017) has made the leap to become Bangkok’s most vocal champion of all things local. Canada-trained executive chef Napol Jantraget and his pastry chef wife Saki Hoshino whip up Thai-inflected food that’s contemporary in taste and appearance, and yet deeply rooted in age-old techniques.   
 
The food: Using only a minimal number of ingredients in each dish, the kitchen employs traditionally Thai and internationally cribbed fermentation techniques to bring a powerful intensity to proceedings. Snakehead caught from the waterways surrounding Bangkok comes prepared in a green curry made from fish stock and sweet and zesty Isaan mustard green, which has a nasal hit like wasabi. Dehydrated acacia also provides a local stand-in for nori. Dishes are small and elegant—often approaching fine dining in their presentation—though 80/20’s total package provides a laidback and also affordable night.
 
The vibe: Situated at the foot of a busy hostel in the buzzing Charoenkrung neighborhood, 80/20 channels old-school shop-house charm through retro signage, heavy wooden doors and iron grilles. Add in smiling, down-to-earth service, and a cocktail list that packs a decidedly Thai kick, and you’ve got a meal that’s anything but stuffy. 

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Restaurant details
Address: 80/20, 1052-1054 Charoen Krung Soi 26, Bangkok, Thailand
Phone: 099-118-2200
Website: www.facebook.com/8020bkk
Area: Charoenkrung, Yaowarat (Chinatown)
Price Range: BBB
Open since: November, 2015
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight
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