From food to decor, this Charoenkrung diner is a clever mix of Thai and Western.
The buzz: Last year’s hipster underdog (#15 in Top Tables 2017) has made the leap to become Bangkok’s most vocal champion of all things local. Canada-trained executive chef Napol Jantraget and his pastry chef wife Saki Hoshino whip up Thai-inflected food that’s contemporary in taste and appearance, and yet deeply rooted in age-old techniques.
The food: Using only a minimal number of ingredients in each dish, the kitchen employs traditionally Thai and internationally cribbed fermentation techniques to bring a powerful intensity to proceedings. Snakehead caught from the waterways surrounding Bangkok comes prepared in a green curry made from fish stock and sweet and zesty Isaan mustard green, which has a nasal hit like wasabi. Dehydrated acacia also provides a local stand-in for nori. Dishes are small and elegant—often approaching fine dining in their presentation—though 80/20’s total package provides a laidback and also affordable night.
The vibe: Situated at the foot of a busy hostel in the buzzing Charoenkrung neighborhood, 80/20 channels old-school shop-house charm through retro signage, heavy wooden doors and iron grilles. Add in smiling, down-to-earth service, and a cocktail list that packs a decidedly Thai kick, and you’ve got a meal that’s anything but stuffy.
|Address:||80/20, 1052-1054 Charoen Krung Soi 26, Bangkok, Thailand|
|Area:||Charoenkrung, Yaowarat (Chinatown)|
|Open since:||November, 2015|
|Opening hours:||Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight|
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