Chef Gaggan Anand interprets regional Indian dishes with wow-worthy techniques.
The buzz: Is Gaggan Anand Asia's most famous chef? With a Netflix Chef's Table special and a string of wins at Asia's 50 Best under his belt, there's no doubt. And for what? Tasting menus that chart around 25 courses of Indian, Japanese, Tibetan and Thai flavors skewed beyond all recognition into everything from Minion ice pops to lumps of coal.
The food: Clear three hours of your schedule, come hungry and don't mind eating with your hands. In the tradition of Japanese omakase, Gaggan has mostly dispensed with the need for cutlery, instead designing his transcendent courses—momo dumplings bursting with pork curry, grape juice and garlic; reinvented Indian snacks like idli and murukku—into individually prepared bites. Theater has always been a part of Gaggan's cuisine, whether its cauliflower ice cream disguised as a stick of white asparagus or (an Instagram star almost as famous as Gaggan himself) "Lick it Up," which arrives to the tune of Kiss and requires guests to literally lick strips of mushroom, pea and shaved truffles off their plate.
The place: Despite the fame, Anand remains a regular master of ceremonies around his 13-seat chef's table (The Lab), displaying a truly inspiring level of energy and love for the task. His team of sommeliers, led by Vladimir Kojic (see page 80), show an equal verve for extolling the virtues of weird and wonderful labels to guests both in The Lab and out in the refined, colonial-style white-washed dining room.
|Address:||Gaggan, 68/1 Lang Suan Rd., Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||January, 2011|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Sat 6-11pm|
|Nearest train||BTS Chit Lom|
|Reservation recommended, Parking available|
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