New York's sushi master has moved to Bangkok and opened the most exciting Japanese restaurant in town.
The buzz: Masato’s arrival in 2016 was greeted by months-long waits for a table, and demand has scarcely quietened down since. The hype is justified. Japan-native Masato Shimizu sits atop Bangkok’s increasingly competitive niche for high-quality omakase.
The food: From behind a beautiful L-shaped counter, the chef and his cohorts sculpt a meal that’s incredibly refined yet dispels the idea of omakase as an awkward, drawn-out affair. Across roughly 20 courses, you get sashimi, nigiri (fish atop rice) and other pretty little creations which defy the simplicity of their ingredients (delivered daily from Tsukiji Market, naturally). To pick highlights is to do a disservice, but the showmanship is dazzling, from the precision knifework to the use of hot charcoal (taking the place of blowtorch), and the produce exquisite, like a monkfish liver that lives up to its nickname “foie gras of the sea” and a decadent uni sushi that combines both the creamier murazaki and stronger bafun varieties of sea urchin.
The vibe: You won’t see any signage outside beyond a single lantern, no more than 15 inches wide, on which is written two syllables: “su shi.” Walk inside and you’re all but transported to a back-street Tokyo sushi-ya. No embarrassing pauses, here: Masato is warm, conversational and happy to break out a book mid-meal to educate you on a single piece of fish.
|Address:||Sushi Masato, 3/22 Sukhumvit 31 Soi 1 (Sawasdee), Bangkok, Thailand|
|Open since:||January, 2016|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sun 5:30-10pm|
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